In the lap of Firdaus

There is a famous quote by the poet Amir Khusrau that says, “Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast.” Loosely translated, it means: ‘If there’s paradise on Earth, it’s here, it’s here, it’s here’. This quote perfectly captures the mesmerising beauty of Kashmir. There are places you visit and rejoice, and then there are places like Kashmir that continue to live with you for long after you return.

The memories of such mesmerising places, with their quaint wonders, poetic soul, and heart-touching warmth, continue to linger like a sweet fragrance. Located in the northernmost part of India, Kashmir is a place one cannot miss in a lifetime. If you ask me, a single visit to this state doesn’t do it justice. This paradise reveals a different kind of beauty with each season! Whether it’s the snow-clad landscapes of winter, the endless blooms of spring, the lush green meadows of summer, or the golden hues of autumn, every season brings with it a spellbinding charm of its own. There’s just so much to explore, so much to soak in, and so much to be amazed by.

As someone who has spent substantial time living in Kashmir, I have witnessed the beauty it holds up close; it’s so pristine it can move you to tears. The gentle gushing streams of Jhelum river, the Zabarwan and Pir Panjal range of Himalayas in the background, and a hospitality that’ll warm your heart — all these elements come together to create what might be God’s favourite scenery. I can’t hold back but take you through everything this beautiful Indian state has to offer. Let’s begin our journey with the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, Srinagar!

Srinagar: The city of lakes, gardens, and amazing food!

Srinagar is like a painting coming to life. As you reach Srinagar, begin your journey with a quiet Shikara ride at Dal Lake to calm your mind and break away from all your worries. As you sail through the lake, enjoy a cup of coffee or a fruit plate from the floating vendors and visit the floating market on the way. Another fun fact, Dal houses the only floating post office in the world. So, take a pit stop and you’ll become a part of history as the Floating Post Office of India will turn your photos into stamps.

Next, you can visit the Mughal Gardens: Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh, and Chashme Shahi. These ancient gardens are a breathing testament of symmetry and serenity. Lined with lush green trees and splendid blooms in summer, these gardens appear to whisper old Persian verses to the wind. Don’t forget to look out for gigantic ancient Chinar trees that have stood tall for years and are a part of Kashmir’s heritage. Each garden has its own charm.

As you wind up the Dal Lake and gardens, it’ll surely be evening and that’s when you need to head to the Taj Dal View Hotel. Nestled on the Kralsangri hill and surrounded by the Zabarwan Mountains, the hotel’s deck offers the most unforgettable sunset view. During the sunset, the sky turns tangerine and gold, and you get a 180-degree view of Dal Lake with the mountains in the background. As you sip your coffee with this view before you, leaving will feel difficult.

For the second day in Srinagar, you can plan a visit to the famous Shankaracharya Temple. Situated on the top of Zabarwan mountain ranges, this nearly 2000-year-old temple is dedicated to lord Shiva. A thousand feet above the valley floor, the mountain offers unmatched bliss and a serene view of Srinagar city. Next, head out to the Hari Parbat Fort. This ancient fort, built by the Durrani Empire, is situated atop a hill and offers panoramic views of the entire city.

Post this, take a pit stop for lunch and head out, on foot, to shop till you drop. Markets, such as Residency Road, Polo View and Lal Chowk, will offer you everything Kashmiri you can think of. Read till the end, I’ll elaborate on what you can take home. If you visit Srinagar in March-April, you’ll be able to visit the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden. It’s the largest tulip garden in Asia spread over an area of about 74 acres. It houses around a lakh variety of tulips, each with a unique colour and texture. It’s so serene, you might as well plan your trip around its opening dates.

Doodhpathri: The untouched “Valley of Milk”

Doodhpathri is a hidden gem located nearly two hours away from Srinagar. So, if you do plan to visit this place, you must reserve one entire day for it. The road to Doodhpathri takes you through untouched, dense forests and quiet villages. Even before you reach the destination, you’d want to stop your car every now and then for a gazillion pictures. Now, the real question: why is it called “Valley of Milk”? The place is home to the crystal-clean Shaliganga river. It’s so milky-clear, that you’ll be left in disbelief. Hence, the name.

If you’re visiting in summer or spring, dip your feet in the icy-cold river, rejoice in the beauty of the verdant pastures, and soak in the vast pine plantations and the mountains in the distance. If the water feels too cold, get a cup of Kashmiri Kahwa to warm your body and heart. Doodhpathri will surely feel like a lost chapter from a fairytale, untouched and unforgettable.

Pahalgam: A joyous play of rivers and meadows

Pahalgam is the most cinematic place you’ll see around Srinagar! To truly soak in this place, you need to give it a day or two. Absolutely white, snow-clad in winters and lush green, covered in flowers in summer-spring. In the vicinity of Pahalgam, you have the Aru Valley, Betaab Valley, and the Baisaran Valley. Baisaran Valley and Aru Valley offer pine forests that open in vast meadows covered in wild grass and pretty flowers. They feel like a childhood dream. On the other hand, at Betaab Valley, you can spend your time sitting on smooth boulders with pristine waters rushing by your side, feeling grounding peace. Maybe, here is where you can pause and reflect on life, trying to find your calling!

Gulmarg: A ride to the clouds

Known for its winter skiing, it transforms into a lush wonderland in warmer months. Spend a day here to enjoy its beauty without rushing. The Gulmarg gondola, one of the world’s highest cable cars, lifts you above forests, pastures, and tiny toy-like homes, and takes you to the top of the mountains. At Apharwat Peak, the second phase of the gondola, snow will still linger in summers like an afterthought.

What you must eat in Kashmir

Kashmiri cuisine is a symphony of bold flavours, slow cooking, and unbelievable textures. There’s so much traditional food to try, you wouldn’t want to miss a thing. Let’s take a look at some of them:

• Kahwa: The Kashmiri Kahwa is a traditional green tea drink which has a soothing blend of flavours and aroma. It’s served hot and has a lovely taste of various spices, nuts, and saffron.
• Kashmiri Wazwan: Wazwan is a multi-course meal. Try to order this when you’re really famished and you’ll enjoy every last bite to the fullest. It includes several meat dishes like rogan josh, a spicy slow-cooked mutton curry and yakhni, a tangy mutton dish with yoghurt and saffron base.
• Modur Pulao: Full of flavours, aroma, and very hearty, this dish is made with sweet saffron rice lots of ghee, nuts, and hints of cardamom.
• Dum Aloo and Nadru Yakhni: A delight for vegetarians, these dishes are a must-try. While dum aloo is spicy and rich, nadru yakhni is basically lotus stems cooked in yoghurt gravy.
• Local bakes: Kashmiris take their local breads very seriously and while you’re there, you should, too. With a cup of hot tea, try girda which is baked in a tandoor. Or you can also try the local kulcha, lavasa, or tilvor. These are easily available at every nook and corner.

Some places that you can visit in Srinagar for delicious food are Ahdoos and Mughal Darbar for traditional Kashmiri food. If you want to eat American or Italian food, you can visit places like Chakosi Makosi, 14th Avenue, Molly’s Café, or Café Liberty. The best bakeries in town are Le Delice, Lavelle, Crème By Ahdoos and Moonlight (you cannot miss their walnut fudge). Also, for an authentic and Pintersty Kahwa experience, visit Chai Jaai.

What to take back home?

Kashmir is a shopper’s paradise! There’s so much to take back home, from food items to clothing to home décor, every shop will make you want to buy more and more! Let’s delve into some things you can buy while in Kashmir.

• Home décor: From intricate paper-mâché items like coasters, boxes, and wall hangings to carefully carved walnut wood items like boxes, trays, or even frames, there is lots you can pick. You can also pick up cushion covers, table runners, rugs, and wall hangings in Aari work, which is the traditional embroidery with thick woollen or silk threads.
• Clothes: Oh! Where do I even begin? Let’s start with the basics — Pashmina. While it’s something that sounds basic, these extraordinarily soft and posh shawls are exquisite. Next, you can pick shawls, sarees, scarves, or suits in many amazing handworks. There’s Aari work as I mentioned before. Another unique and extremely intricate work is Soozni, which is a threadwork using thin, delicate threads. The last work you must look out for is Kani, which is a weaving technique. Woolen Kashmiri Kani shawls are a must-have!
• Food items: You cannot go back without buying Kahwa, saffron, and some walnuts.